Dining Out

A Worldwide Cuisine Craze Finds a Home in Charlotte County

If you look at the dining guide of any cosmopolitan city, from Sarasota to the Big Apple, you’ll find a tapas restaurant in their list of hot spots. There are new tapas bars and full-service restaurants popping up worldwide. This is NOT a new concept.

As a matter of fact, the tapas concept dates back to the 14th Century, when poor sanitary conditions prevailed and a lack of hygiene could land you with malaria or the plague if you weren’t careful. Back then, Spaniards would cover their glasses with a piece of bread, or better yet, bread garnished with diced tomatoes and peppers. Tapas, which means "to cover," started out of practical concerns and evolved into a way of eating more than just Spanish-inspired appetizers.

As Joe LeClair, head waiter at Tapas One in Port Charlotte describes it, the scope of the food develops and broadens with flavor just like a fine beer or wine opens up as you drink it. So you may start with bread and a bruschetta of roasted peppers in oil, but you progress through the selection of small plates to more fully developed dishes with a huge range of flavor and spice

Tapas One is a story of evolution as well. Located just north of Murdock on U.S. Highway 41, the owners first opened Port City Java, a full-service coffee bar serving breakfast and lunch and providing Internet access. The décor was warm and inviting, but Charlotte County wasn’t ready for a standalone coffee bar. Enter Bob Moltzan, now chef at Tapas One. He had cooked most of his life and completed a formal culinary arts education, but couldn’t afford to open his own restaurant. So, he asked the owners for an opportunity to cook for them and introduce them to the tapas concept. And so Tapas One was born. The restaurant opened last fall and has continued to grow in popularity ever since.

The Tapas One motto is, "Take your time, take a breath, take a sip…and relax." The booths and lounge seating areas offer a very low key, European-style dining environment appropriate for the longer lingering meals typical of a night of tapas - there are no televisions here and please don’t use your cell phone. Reservations are made in two-hour blocks because all dishes are made from scratch and meant to be enjoyed in a relaxed atmosphere shared by good friends and great conversation.

Tapas One offers a diverse selection of beer and wine to compliment the food, and drink prices are very reasonable. Live music is often performed on weekend nights, and a separate room is available for meetings or special events. The artwork behind the register was actually created by Moltzan to match the décor. I’m big on lighting to set the mood for a meal, and Tapas One is lit like a studio designed especially for food presentation, with art deco, low-voltage pendants and spots highlighting the artwork displayed on the walls.

The menu has 28 items and is always augmented by a few dinner specials and new items Moltzan may be trying out. Prices range from $5 to $12, with an occasional dinner entrée going higher. Everything is fresh, flavorful and sized as what would typically be a large appetizer. For tasting multiple dishes, sharing each selection between two people works well, and if there is something you want more of for yourself, the next plate is only minutes away.

The menu has 28 items and is always augmented by a few dinner specials and new items Moltzan may be trying out.

On this particular evening, Moltzan provided a selection to highlight the menu’s diversity. After the complimentary bruschetta, we enjoyed tapas variadas, a plate of blue and manchengo cheeses, chorizo, olives, ham and fresh fruit

The next plate was a treat since I didn’t think I liked eggplant. Moltzan’s eggplant rollatini consisted of a breaded and pan-fried strip of the vegetable wrapped around a four-cheese blend. It was baked and served with the homemade pomodoro sauce that made me want to lick my plate. The blend of flavors melted in my mouth, and the change to a soft-textured item was pleasant as well.

Next up was white cannellini beans and chorizo made for two. The beans, sausage, peppers, garlic and shallots served on toasted sourdough was irresistible, particularly the mix of slightly soft and seasoned beans with the tangy chorizo sausage slices. Want your beans and chorizo with more garlic, or do you prefer your dishes to be extra spicy? Just ask Moltzan himself, since he comes out of the kitchen frequently to meet guests and make sure things are prepared to their satisfaction.

The Peruvian ceviche, called tiradito, was spicy and seasoned with a yellow pepper sauce, cilantro and lime juice. It was a delightful, fresh dish. The tuna escabeche was seared and accompanied by a finely diced salsa of peppers. It, too, was scrumptious.

The beef tenderloin with caramelized onions and apples was the most substantial dish of the evening, and the beef was cooked perfectly. Another tenderloin item on the menu that’s worth checking out is Moltzan’s version of a Philly steak. You’ve never tasted anything like it. Don’t miss the escargot, Andalusian-style gazpacho and goat cheese stuffed dates either. Our last item of the evening was Moltzan’s version of Vallencia-style paella, using chicken rather than seafood mixed with peas, rice, chorizo and small beans.

As you can see from this wide array of dishes, you either have to go with a big group willing to share or go back frequently to make it deeper into the menu than any one visit might allow.

Dessert is limited to three items and a "liquid dessert" menu consisting of three sweet wines. The tuxedo bombe, banana rum cheesecake and crème brulee all go well with one of LeClair’s special lattes.

If you haven’t had a chance to experience the tapas culinary experience, head out to Tapas One hungry and with plenty of time to explore the menu. It’s also a great choice after a long, late day at work when a full meal may seem like too much or when you can’t quite decide what you have the taste for. The fresh ingredients, made-to-order quality and cornucopia of flavors make Tapas One a welcome addition to Charlotte County’s restaurant scene.

Tapas One is located at 1032 Tamiami Trail, Suite 11, in Port Charlotte. Hours of operation are Tuesday–Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. Tapas One is closed on Sundays and Mondays, though they often host wine tastings and dinners on Monday evenings. Reservations are highly recommended any night of the week. Call (941) 625-3000 for reservations and information.

HARBOR STYLE would like to thank Chef Bob Moltzan, Joe LeClair and owner Raja Muppavarapu for providing our reviewer with such a wonderful evening.