Dining Out: Eagle Grill

Maritime art, local history and fine dining make this post-Charley renovation worth the drive.

J.C. and Wendy Dewing have lived on Boca Grande since 1977. As such, they have witnessed, and now become part of, the incredible transformation of the old Miller’s Marina. The docks were originally placed over 60 years ago to moor a library boat, Papyrus, which served neighboring island communities. These docks eventually became Miller’s Marina, a clapboard facility for boaters with a restaurant that couldn’t be air conditioned because of holes in the flooring. Hurricane Charley devastated the building, leading to the restoration and transformation to the Boca Grande Marina, home to Eagle Grille.

With 30 years of experience as innkeepers in Camden, Maine, J.C. and Wendy feel quite at home hosting diners in a setting very much akin to a maritime museum. The teak and mahogany walls of the entry and spacious dining rooms display a collection of paintings of famous sailing ships elegantly lighted and framed. Scale models of vintage ships and antique nautical artifacts create a warm, rich environment. A wall of windows separates the dining rooms from a veranda for screened, outdoor service. The ceiling is arched white tongue-in-groove, and the carpet is the same pattern— white stars on royal blue—found in the oval office. Eagle Grille is one of those places where my family and I were delayed in ordering dinner because we spent so much time looking around once we got there.

Casual dining is available at Miller’s Dockside, located on the first level beside the marina. Lunch and dinner crowds looking for their favorite sandwich, salad, brick oven pizza or fresh catch after a day on the boat or beach are welcome. The Eagle Grille is located upstairs, overlooking the marina. It’s the perfect place to watch the sunset and moonrise.

Eagle Grille’s menu showcases “Great Florida and American cuisine” and features several specials nightly. Soups, salads and starters include she-crab bisque, fried green tomatoes, baked stuffed oysters, a ceviche with sushi grade tuna and several fresh salads. We were served the bisque, which was delicately creamed and rich in crab flavor without the potato fillers found in lesser quality chowders. We also enjoyed the fried green tomato, served up thick and crisp with a crab topping. Both the Cayo Costa salad with Bibb lettuce, avocado, hearts of palm, orange and Key lime vinaigrette and the Grande house salad were fresh and crisp with a great tropical twist.

The “Main Events” include a diverse selection of unique pairings, such as cedar plank Key West lobster tails with a mango mojo and lime ginger syrup. There were scallops prepared with ruby red grapefruit sauce and toasted pistachios. Eagle Grille’s meat dishes include lamb T-bones with honey-mint pesto and grilled pork tenderloin with Kentucky bourbon glaze and sweet potato praline gravy. This kind of diversity really shows the creative talents of the chef.

We enjoyed the scallop dish as well as the Creole grilled shrimpn- grits with andouille bayou sausage, cheese grits and shrimp gravy. The robust flavors blended perfectly within each dish with nothing overpowering one ingredient or the other. My family was also served a braised pork shank with cider-shallot gravy and ginger cremolata and a pancetta-wrapped sea bass with a saffron-sherry sauce and roasted tomato salsa. The shank was perfectly crisped on the outside and fell off the bone inside. The cider-based gravy provided a hearty fall flair. My son’s devoured it. The delicate sea bass took on a bold flavor with its wrap of pancetta and accent of roasted tomatoes. My mouth is watering after just describing all the delicious flavors. Appropriate wines, such as Segesio Zinfandel and Pride Mountain Chardonnay, complemented our meals perfectly.

Their side dishes are equally original and include a mushroom spaetzle, sautéed Swiss chard and a yellow squash medley. All of these selections really fit the season well, and I look forward to enjoying the menu as it evolves with the weather.

Then it was time for dessert. We knew that any Maine innkeeper, with any experience at all, would have something cinnamonly fragrant—yes, I made that word up—and warm and sweet. The Dewings did not disappoint. The first dessert item brought to the table was a cinnamon roll and caramelized apple bread pudding with caramel sauce. It was absolutely divine. The Key lime pie with mango and a gingerbread crust and triple berry shortcake were both tantalizing as well.

I heartily recommend heading out to the Eagle Grille on your next dinner excursion. Believe me, you will not regret it, no matter how long a drive you may think it is. It is worth it! The bayou setting is tranquil, the atmosphere is warm and historic and the food is delectable. Plan for a whole evening to soak it all in and enjoy the service and hospitality of a seasoned innkeeper at a fine restaurant.

The Eagle Grill and Miller’s Dockside are located at 220 Harbor Dr. in Boca Grande by car, and 26.75041 N, 82.2605 W at ICW Marker 2 by boat. Miller’s Dockside, the downstairs restaurant, is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. for lunch and dinner. Eagle Grille, the upstairs restaurant, is open from 6 to 9 p.m. for dinner on the weekdays. Lunch is served upstairs from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. during season and on weekends. Both restaurants are closed on Mondays. Call (941) 964-8000 or visit www.eaglegrille.com for information.

HARBOR STYLE would like to thank J.C. and Wendy Dewing and their entire staff for providing our reviewer and his family with such an enjoyable dining experience.