Dining Out: Farlow's on the Water

Caribbean Cuisine with a Southern Twist Makes for Tropical Dining at its Best

For five years, owners Keith and Laurie Farlow and Head Chef John Mazza have served creative tropical cuisine with a southern twist at Farlow’s on the Water, located along U.S. Highway 776 on the banks of Ainger Creek in Englewood. This is remarkable given the fact that at least a dozen restaurants have come and gone in Englewood, not to mention the rest of the county, over the past five years. Also remarkable is that Farlow’s has had the same chef since opening. Mazza has actually been a part of the Farlow family for years; he worked with Keith’s father years ago in Kentucky before joining Keith and Laurie down here in Florida. The three make a remarkable team; the persistent quality they’ve delivered is definitely the key to Farlow’s success, making it a favorite of locals and snowbirds alike.

In the restaurant business, I would argue that quality and consistency trump location, service and ambiance, but Farlow’s has it all. The large outside dining area is uniquely shaded with trellised vines, and the creek-side landscaping creates one of the nicest outside dining environments in the area. The service was southern hospitality at its professional best. Laurie’s oversight of the full bar, servers, outside patio and hostess desk gives the impression of a finely tuned machine. Farlow’s is made up of a group of people that really love where they work.

If you enjoy some lively tunes with your meal, then Farlow’s is the place for you. Live music is auditioned on Tuesdays, when new talents get a chance to impress diners and hopefully secure a regular gig for the Wednesday through Saturday slots. Some of the best local talent plays regularly on Farlow’s patio, and the full parking lot is testimony to the overall popularity of this tropical dining oasis.

The drink menu is always a fun place to start with a tropical setting, and Farlow’s offers four pages of specialty drinks. I tried the southern influence of a Kentucky bourbon and Peachtree schnapps martini, a perfect blend, while my wife had an extravagant white chocolate raspberry cheesecake martini with a swirl of real raspberry coulis and graham cracker rim. Absolutely delicious. There was something for everyone’s taste in cocktails as well as a handpicked wine-by-the-glass list to complement the extensive food menu.

The menu’s casual side includes a full page of hot and cold sandwiches ranging from Caribbean crab salad to the Kentucky Hot Brown, an open-faced sandwich consisting of turkey on toasted bread with cheddar cheese sauce, tomatoes and bacon. Talk about comfort food! An eclectic selection of appetizers, large salads and sautéed and grilled entrees follows. Fresh meats and seafood are equally represented. Prices are reasonable; even their premium steak preparations were under $25. We began our exploration of the menu with an appetizer tower, a dish that allows you to choose three of restaurant’s eight starters. The fried green tomatoes were thickly sliced and
perfectly crisp and tender. The coconut shrimp was made with freshly shaved coconut and served with a deliciously sweet house strawberry sauce. A crab-stuffed, marinated portabella mushroom topped with melted provolone cheese rounded out our selections. Other possible choices include crab cakes, calamari and West Indies conch fritters, but I’m going back for the southern peach and brie quesadilla with spicy peppers and a Key lime honey dipping sauce.

Keith gets whole fresh fish as often as possible so it can be filleted and prepared to his liking. Our pompano Antigua was served tableside with colorful vegetables and a sweet mango sauce. The fish was fork tender and was nicely complimented by the tropical flavor of the mango.

Their signature steak dish, Frenchman’s Reef Filet House Specialty, consists of three luscious, hand cut tenderloin medallions grilled and then sautéed with shitake mushrooms, artichokes, spinach and tomatoes. It’s served with a delicate white wine cream sauce that doesn’t overpower the freshly cut beef. Farlow’s offers one of those menus where a party of four could each get something different every weekend for a month and never be disappointed. Tempting options include the St. Croix seafood pie, a puffed pastry with lobster, shrimp and scallops in creamy white sauce as well as blackened tuna steak, mango jerk chicken, steak au poivre and a Caribbean version of ossobuco. And the side dishes are no less special than the entrees. The baked sweet potato with mango rum butter gave a whole new meaning to sweet, and the corn pudding was almost enough to convince me to go vegetarian…almost. The wine selection had several notable, yet affordable, bottles. The chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon served with our entrees paired up perfectly. Dessert featured a colossal chocolate wedge, classic tart Key lime pie and other sweet delicacies that raised the question, “Why not just go for dessert, drinks and live music?”

Dining at Farlow’s can offer a range of experiences ranging from a fun-filled evening of live music and cocktails on the patio to a casual dinner with appetizers galore or an elegant tropical gourmet feast. Given their track record, creativity and quality, you won’t be disappointed with any of them.

Farlow’s on the Water is located at 2080 South McCall Road in Englewood. Hours of operation are Monday–Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday–Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. There is live entertainment on the patio Wednesday through Saturday. Call (941) 474-5343 or visit www.farlowsonthewater.com for information.

HARBOR STYLE would like to thank Keith and Laurie Farlow, Chef Mazzo and the entire Farlow’s staff for providing our reviewer with such an enjoyable and delicious evening.